About Beans…
Dried beans are the workhorses of our pantries. They are high in protein, low in fat, low in cholesterol, and high in complex carbohydrates (the “good” carbs), too. With so many people making the shift to plant-based diets, beans are taking on a bigger and more important role.
How wonderful, then, that we found Mike and Chris Reeske, small farmers dedicated to preserving old varieties of heritage beans Mike has collected from around the world. I was amazed by the beans Mike and Chris grow, harvest, clean, and package (with some help of course) on their seven acres on the Valley Center, California farm they call Rio del Rey.
The beans Mike and Chris grow are black, white, gold, brown, speckled, spotted, even striped. They are gorgeous, and delicious, and how fun for me to be part of one of their annual bean tastings, attended by the best chefs and food experts in the San Diego region!
Here’s one of the couple’s favorite recipes. For this dish, they recommend the tiny, protein-packed Tepary beans, though others will work, too. Mike and Chris served this recipe to the crew of A Growing Passion on one of the days we were shooting our episode on dried beans at their farm. I could not get enough of this delicious dish!
Tepary Bean and Fennel Ragout
— Courtesy of Mike and Chris Reeske
Ingredients
½ C white Tepary, Anasazi, or Rio Zape beans, sorted carefully for debris and rinsed (makes 1 1/2 C cooked beans)
1 fennel bulb, trimmed, feathery tops reserved
2 T olive oil, divided
1-2 large carrots, diced
1 medium onion, chopped
1 1/2 t kosher salt
2 1/2 t chopped fresh thyme leaves, divided
Directions
1. Brine the beans. Dissolve 1 ½ tablespoons salt in 2 quarts of cold water. Add the beans and soak overnight or up to 24 hours. Alternatively, bring the beans, salt and water to a boil, turn off the heat and let sit for one hour. In either case, drain the beans and rinse well.
2. Add the beans to a medium size pot and add enough water or a mixture of water and stock (vegetable or chicken). The liquid level should be two inches above the beans. Bring the beans to a slow boil for ten minutes, Reduce the heat so that the beans are just simmering. Cook an additional 45-60 minutes until the beans are al dente. Add more liquid as needed.
3. Halve fennel lengthwise, then slice thinly lengthwise. Discard the fennel core. In a medium saucepan, sauté fennel with 1 T oil over medium heat until edges brown, 7 to 10 minutes. Pour into a bowl; chill.
4. Add remaining 1 T oil, the carrot, and onion to pan; sauté until vegetables start to brown, about 8 minutes. Add beans and their liquid, cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until tender, 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 hours, stirring occasionally and adding a little more water if beans start to look dry. Stir in salt, 2 tsp. thyme, and the fennel slices; return to a simmer and cook about 10 more minutes.
5.Chop enough fennel fronds to make 1 tbsp. and stir into beans with remaining 1/2 tsp. thyme. Place in serving dishes. To accent your beans, arrange additional fennel fronds on top of the beans before serving.
See Mike and Chris Reeske and their wonderful beans in our episode Beans, Beans – The Magical Legume
— Nan Sterman
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